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Lake Titicaca is a real oddity. Imagine a lake 170 km long and 60 km wide sitting at a lofty 3800m above sea level and surrounded by mountains. At places you cannot even see the other side, just the curvature of the earth. Copacabana, Bolivia (9/2004).



Lake Titicaca`s floating islands are made of reeds (a type of plant) bunch together. The whole thing floats and if you dig a hole, you will hit water and will fall in and drown.  Floating islands near Puno, Peru (9/2004).


Things work differently in other countries. On a boat trip across Lake Titicaca, 2 French girls take over the helm while the driver sleeps. Soon enough, everyone is asleep as the boat continues to chug along across the lake. I just watched and laughed. Once in a while I`d wake them up when I thought we might hit something soon.  On route to Isla Amantani, Lake Titicaca.


People say that there are few pictures of myself on the website....here you go. Copacabana, Lake Titicaca (9/2004).



La Paz, Bolivia`s largest city, is one big street market. People just plop themselves on the roadside and sell stuff.



Footballs................shoes.........llama fetuses.........you can buy anything on the streets of La Paz.



The 70 km road from La Paz to Coroico descends 3400m from the high altiplano to the Amazon jungle. It is called "The worlds most dangerous road" for the number of vehicles which have plunged off the side. Since the road was built the casualties are in the thousands. Such a route makes for a fantastic mountain bike descent. Coroico (9/2004).


More proof that I do not always stay at crappy cheap hotels. Hotel Esmeralda, Coroico (9/2004).



The Andes is the 2nd highest mountain range in the world but a distant 2nd to the Himalayas of Asia. Its really a series of rounded mountains and brown dry hills with the occasional large snow-covered massif. Nevado Illampu, Sorata (9/2004).



Bolivia has amazing mountain bike potential. There are hundreds of routes from the high altiplano to the jungle below. This particular 2 day descent was 4000 vertical metres of high-speed un-interupted downhill. Near Sorata (9/2004).



2 day moutain bike descent from Sorata to Mapiri (9/2004).



Gun, dog and ghetto blaster, typical luggage waiting to be loaded onto a boat. Rural Bolivia is a real frontier cowboy country. Rio Mapiri (9/2004).

There are thousands of alligator and caymans in the Bolivian pampas wetlands. Rurrenabaque.



Pampas wetlands near Rurrenabaque (9/2004).



Rio Mapiri, Madidi National Park (9/2004).



Lots of beautiful pristine jungle lakes in Madidi National Park.



The capyabara is the worlds largest rodent (ie. rat). Pampas wetlands, Rurrenabaque (9/2004).



Pampas wetlands, Rio Yacuma near Rurrenabaque (9/2004).



Eat or be eaten. There really isn`t that much useful meat in a piranha. Check out the gnarly teeth. Piranha fishing in the Rio Yacuma, Rurrenabaque (9/2004).

Lots of funny looking cacti in the hills of Southern Bolivia, near Tupiza (10/2004).



When I arrived at the guest-house late one evening, there was nobody around except an 8 and 9 year old sister and brother. Their parents were away that evening. No problems, they checked me in and cooked me dinner ! When the parents came home later on I joked with them, "...kids that age in my country can barely tie their own shoelaces on their own.."...(which is not far from the truth). Sajama village (10/2004).



Silver and other metals have been mined at Cerro Rico, Potosi since the 1500`s. At one point, this pock-marked hill supplied more than 1/2 of the worlds` silver and bankrolled the Spanish empire. Potosi (10/2004).



Tourists can pay for the privilege of joining the 8000+ miners still working there today to crawl on their hands and knees through the mines to breathe toxic fumes and get really really filthy. I could barely squeeze through some parts of the mine shafts and I am a pretty slim dude. After 4 hours in "hell" I tapped the guide on the shoulder....OK, tour's over, now get me out of here !!!!  Inside the Potosi mines (10/2004).


Every 10 minutes or so my horse (with me on it) would wander off to the side to chomp on a bush or some grass...and of course, nobody elses` horse did that. I had a good laugh, it kind of reminded me of me ! Tupiza, Bolivia (10/2004).


After the Galapagos trip in May, I have been patiently waiting for the next big outstanding mind-blowing highlight of this trip. That moment came during the 5-day jeep trip from Tupiza to Uyuni (the Salar tour). The scenery in this remote SW corner of Bolivia could be the most unique, bizarre and magnificent natural landscapes I have seen in all my travels. SW Bolivia (10/2004).



Laguna Verde and Volcan Licancabur. SW Bolivia (10/2004).



Laguna Colorado, a massive red-colored lake only about 1-2 metres deep, has a population of over 10000 flamingoes. SW Bolivia.


"Arbol de Piedra" (the rock tree), SW Bolivia (10/2004).



The rare James flamingo, Laguna Hedionda, SW Bolivia (10/2004).



Football game at 3600m on the magnificent Salar de Uyuni (the Uyuni salt flats), SW Bolivia (10/2004).



View of the Salar from the slopes of Mt Tunapa.

Salar de Uyuni.



Isla Pescadores, Salar de Uyuni.

Salt mining on the Salar.


The Salar de Uyuni trip is one of my top 3 highlights of South America (along with the Galapagos and Antarctica). SW Bolivia (10/2004).




Subject: Hola en espanol !

Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2004

 

?Como estas amigos? Estoy bien y muy contento. 

Estoy probando escribir una correo electronic en espanyol pero yo se hay muchos faltas. Por favor no me reias a mi mala espanyol !! 

Hace cinco meses comienzo apprender espanyol. He tomado tres classes por un semana cada vez. He practicado siempre con todos los gentes yo encontro. Por ejemple, el jefe in hotales, el vecicno en autobus y todos los personas. 

Estoy en Sucre ahora. Es una ciudad pequeno en la sud de Bolivia. Me la gusta mucho porque es muy tranquilo, no hay mucho ruidosa, tiene poco trafico y hay escuela barato para la classe espanyol. 

Me quedo aka para 4 dias. Manana voy a ir a Potosi. Potosi es famosa para la plata. En siglo 16, los espanyoles encontra un montana tiene mas plata del mundo. Se llama Cerro Rico. Hasta hoy, hay plata aya. Es increible. 

He terminado 4 dias en la escuela espanyol. Mi classe es una con una, solo para 2 horas cada dia. Despues de la classe mi cabeza siempre duele. Estoy no escontumbre apprender. Este classe es mi ultimo vez en este viaje porque soy flaso y queiro solomente viajo, nada mas. Pero, me gusta mucho continuar uso mi espanyol para cinco meses mas de este viaje en America de sur. 

America de sur es muy interesante de viaje. Es muy barato y facil si entiende espanyol. Pero, las comidas es muy malo. Las comidas en otra lugares, Asia por ejemplo, es mas bueno que aki. Despues de Bolivia, voy a visitar Argentina y la partir de sud para temprano verano. 

Gracias por lees mis malo escrito. Quizas mas tarde mi espanyol va a mejorar. 

Hasta luego 

Lee Chai




Subject: On the road in Bolivia...a long ramble.

Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004

 
Topic 1 : The worst job in the world.
For all of you who don`t quite like your jobs (possibly 90% of everyone I know), I have found the clear cup-winner for the absolute worst crap-ass job imaginable, a miner in Potosi.
 
Quick history :
1544, silver was discovered in a hill in southern Bolivia. For the next 2 centuries, this one hill supplied more than 1/2 of the world´s silver and basically bankrolled the entire Spanish empire. The town which flourished at its foot, Potosi, grew to be the largest city in the America´s, rivalling Paris and London. Today, miners are still mining the place.  Can you imagine that, a mine operating continuously for 450 plus years !
 
I just came back today from a tour of the mines...and I tell you, it was an experience.  Amazing, incredible, horrible, foul.....all at once.  Its not an open pit mine but a series of underground tunnels, passages and shafts, some of which are 17 levels deep.  There are are 120 of these mines altogether and 10000 people still working them, mostly all by hand.
 
So, for 3 hours we (group of dumb foreign tourists) hunched, crawled, climbed and slid through tunnels and passage-ways.....many of which I could barely fit through (remember, I have lost lots of weight on this trip and am rake-thin now !).  By the 3rd level underground, the air is foul due to lack of ventilation, chemicals, gases...you name it.  Its hot and humid as hell due too.  Apparently, as chemicals and gases mix they react and produce heat. 
 
So, just to summarize.....(try to picture this OK)....
- you are "inside" a mountain, crawling on hands and knees in a filthy dirty dusty tunnel/cave, which is just 2 feet x  2 feet at the narrow spots.
- you cannot breathe due to the lack of ventilation and whatever air you get is full of dust (kicked up `cos everyone is crawling) and stinks crap since its basically poisonous gas.
- the only light is from the head-lamps, so if you are a claustrophobic person and/or afraid of the dark, you`d last 2 seconds here then pass-out with fear.
- its hot and humid as hell.  You are sweating like a pig.
- there`s no quick escape.  Even if you freak-out and want out NOW, its 1/2 hour to the entrance.
- all this, for 3 hours.
 
Basically, its just hell.  Oh ya, I paid money for this "visit" too !
 
Why did I do this ?  ....(I cannot even claim ignorance since I kind of knew about this from talking to others and I saw a documentary about this a few years ago too).
As a curious minded adventurous type-person, I just couldn`t pass up the chance to see something like this.  Its possibly the only place in the world this type of thing (these working conditions) still exists whereby a non-miner (ie. tourist) can visit and see it all.
 
However, the most inbelievable and simply unimaginable thing about all this is :
There are 10,000 miners in this pit of hell, 9 hours a day, 6 days a week for 20 - 30 years straight, all working by hand.  In the Spanish colonial times (300 plus years), there were hundreds of thousands miners.  An estimated 8 million (mostly Indian and Black) enslaved workers died, mostly from mercury poisoning and the odd mine-shaft collapse.  Man, those Spanish colonist were a real piece of work !
 
How much $$$ do these miners make ?
They make what they find.  Many days, all they find is a lot of dirt but on average (meaning, average luck), about 1000 Bolivianos per month.  That is US$120 !
 
So, what do you all think of your jobs now ?
 
On the subject of Bolivia, here is my 2 cents on the state of this country....
 
Topic 2 : Bolivia is the most wretched and hopeless country I have ever visited.
 
The World Bank and whatever organisations have their own measures of what is the poorest and most underdeveloped country, Bolivia is actually not that bad by those measures (somewhere in the bottom 5% only !). 
 
What I mean is that, I have never seen so much hard-ship, sheer crappy unlivable conditions, suffering people, decrepidness etc etc... of any country I have ever visited and I have been to some horrid places (Pakistan, Iran, India etc...), Bolivia takes the cup.
 
All this has nothing to do with my travel experience and "level of fun" here.  I have been here over a month thus far and as a traveller it has been fantastic. 
 
As a traveller, I more-or-less walk around all day seeing stuff and taking pictures.  However, in Bolivia I have sometimes felt like a decadent pampered Western clown doing this "travel thing".  My camera stuff ...click click click.....is about 1 years earnings for an average Bolivian.
 
Bolivia also has one of the highest percentage of poor people I have seen.  There`s the ruling elite 30 families who control 95% of the wealth, a teeny-weeny middle class and the rest (mostly Indian country-bumpkins) who live is absolute poverty.
 
Y`know, if I were born (or reincarnated) a poor Bolivian country-bumpkin, the moment I realized that I was a poor Bolivian country-bumpkin, I`d just slit my wrists then and there.
 
So, that`s my Bolivia ramble.  Cme spend a month in a place like Bolivia and you`ll be so thankful for where you live and what you do.
 
End of long ramble.
 
Lee Chai





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